Piper-Heidsieck’s Chef de Cave Émilien Boutillat was in Sydney last week to reveal the third release in the Hors-Série collection. This collection is explained by the Maison as having three constant characteristics: Always Unexpected, Always Innovative, and Always a Limited Edition.
The first two releases were revisited Œnothèque champagnes from the 1971 and 1982 vintages. The third release is even more groundbreaking and a testament to Émilien’s bold creativity: not champagne, but two still white wines, Coteaux Champenois, crafted from Pinot Noir from two iconic and unique Grand Cru terroirs Aÿ and Ambonnay.
This duo of Blanc de Noirs is a lesson in innovation, yet it’s essential to look back at history to fully appreciate its significance. The Champagne region has been crafting still, primarily red, wines since the 14th century. With the success of the region’s sparkling wines in the 18th century, the still wines faded into obscurity, only to regain recognition in 1974 when they were granted Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status. Fast forward to the unusually hot and sunny 2022 vintage, which brought exceptional ripeness, and this Hors-Série release stands as a symbol of our changing climate.
Most Coteaux Champenois are white wines from white grapes or red wines from black grapes. This Hors-Série pays homage to the hallmark varietal of Piper-Heidsieck, Pinot Noir, but by making a white wine. This is achieved in the pressing process by retaining only the first press, controlling the colour and delivering the purest expression of the aromas.
In contrast to the usual barrel-vinified approach for Coteaux Champenois, the wines are vinified exclusively in stainless steel, preserving the freshness and minerality. And perhaps in Émilien’s boldest departure from the region’s traditions, he has opted for a screw cap closure instead of the traditional cork, to better preserve freshness.
Tasted together, the wines reveal two very distinct expressions of Pinot Noir. The Hors-Série Coteaux Champenois Aÿ 2022, from a chalky, single north-east-facing plot, has a crystal-like transparency and tension, with an energetic, expressive minerality. The Hors-Série Coteaux Champenois Ambonnay 2022, derived from a south-west-facing slope, is generous and full-bodied with a long finish and a satisfying, saline freshness.
An exciting and audacious Hors-Série release from this progressive Maison!
Our tip:
The wines will be available in Australia in September, timed perfectly for Spring pairings of seafood and sunshine.
