Sir Winston Churchill is history’s most famous champagne drinker. And on my last trip to London I discovered that there is no better place for champagne lovers to live out their Churchill champagne-swilling fantasies than at Raffles London at the Old War Office (OWO), the workplace of Sir Winston during World War II and now a luxury hotel.
At Raffles London at the OWO I was fortunate to sit down with its Head of Wine and one of the world’s best sommeliers, Vincenzo Arnese, to talk all things Champagne & Churchill. I was staying in the gorgeous Ministerial Suite, however my meeting with Vincenzo took place in the spectacular Haldane Suite, the office once used by War Secretary Lord Haldane and Churchill himself, with prime views over Whitehall and Horse Guards Parade.
In 1917 Churchill famously said “Remember, gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne.” His favourite champagne was Pol Roger, first discovered by Sir Winston in 1908 and quickly becoming his signature drink. It was a staple at his home, Chartwell, in Kent, England, and was often served at key moments, such as after victories and during State dinners.
Around 1945, Churchill met and became close to Odette Pol Roger who was married to Jacques Pol Roger. Every year on Churchill’s birthday, Odette Pol Roger sent him a case of champagne. Odette Pol Roger visited Churchill at Chartwell and the pair remained friends until Churchill’s death in 1965. At that time, as a tribute to her late friend, Odette gave instructions that all labels to the United Kingdom were to be bordered in black. In 1975, the first Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill was created in Sir Winston’s honour and launched at his birthplace, Blenheim Palace in 1984.
During our meeting, Vincenzo guided me through four Pol Roger cuvées:
- Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV
- Pol Roger Vintage Brut 2015
- Pol Roger Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2015
- Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2015
The 2015 vintage in Champagne was the hottest and driest on record, but is considered by many to be an exceptional vintage, with cuvées generally displaying power and elegance. These vintage champagnes were no exception.
It was a fitting lineup, given Churchill only drank vintage champagne, with his favourite release being the 1928. He preferred a robust, Pinot Noir-dominant vintage champagne with food, which is the reason his namesake cuvée is over 80% Pinot Noir and aged at least 10 years before release. I also learnt the shocking statistic that Maison Pol Roger estimates Churchill drank 42,000 bottles of Pol Roger during his lifetime!
I left Raffles London at the OWO rested, more knowledgeable and with a deep appreciation of the history of the hotel, vowing to my new friends at the Concierge desk that I would be returning to stay on my next London visit. After this visit I wouldn’t consider staying anywhere else in London. In the words of Winston himself “my tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best”.
Our tip:
For those who prefer a cocktail over champagne, and would prefer to be in their James Bond than Churchill era, ask the Concierge about the “Spy Bar Experience” in the rooms that used to house MI5 and MI6!
