In April, Billecart-Salmon celebrated the launch of the Cuvée Nicolas François 2012 with an elegant dinner at the newly renovated Maison de Famille in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Members of the Champagne press from four continents gathered for an intimate evening hosted by seventh-generation family member and CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart.
Guests were welcomed with an apéritif of Elisabeth Salmon 2012 Rosé, served in the historic Clos Saint-Hilaire, a hallowed, one-hectare parcel planted exclusively with Pinot Noir in 1964. Named after the patron saint of the local church, the Clos provided a picture-perfect setting as the sun set over the walled vineyard.
The evening continued in the beautifully appointed dining room, where we enjoyed a procession of current and back vintages of Nicolas François with dinner, including:
- Cuvée Nicolas François 2012
- Cuvée Nicolas François 2012 En Magnum
- Cuvée Nicolas François 2002 En Magnum
- Cuvée Nicolas François 1982 En Magnum
The star of the evening was, of course, the newly released Cuvée Nicolas François 2012. First created in 1964 as a tribute to house founder Nicolas-François Billecart, who married Elisabeth Salmon in 1818, this prestige cuvée is crafted from 60% Pinot Noir (from the Montagne de Reims) and 40% Chardonnay (from the Côte des Blancs), from predominately Grand Cru vineyards. A portion of the wine is vinified in 15-year-old oak barrels, adding complexity and generosity, and the cuvée is aged on its lees for a decade, yielding remarkable richness and texture.
Though 2012 was a challenging year in Champagne, it produced an outstanding vintage, especially for Pinot Noir. The Nicolas François 2012 reflects the vintage’s clarity and brilliance. On the palate, it is full-bodied and creamy, with luxurious structure, notes of ripe stone fruit and honey, and a long, saline finish. It is a compelling expression of the house’s legacy of craftsmanship and precision.
Adding a touch of surprise to the evening, Chef de Cave Florent Nys appeared with a discreet, unlabelled bottle from the cellar. Served blind, it was later revealed to be the 1996 Nicolas François, a wine that still radiated the vibrant freshness that defines the 1996 vintage.
I adore a good cheese course, with my favourite pairing of the night featuring the Nicolas François 2002 served with the local cheese Chaource, plus carrot and blood orange. Chaource is a soft cow’s milk cheese with a bloomy rind, originating from the Champagne region. It resembles Brie, but saltier and becoming creamier with a mild, mushroom-like flavour as it ages. The dish, like everything that evening, was beautifully conceived and flawlessly executed.
As the evening concluded, guests stepped out into the crisp night air of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, hearts full and palates enriched. A heartfelt thanks to Mathieu Roland-Billecart, Florent Nys, and Hélène Landais for hosting such a memorable and beautifully curated celebration.
Our tip:
The Cuvée Nicolas François 2012 paired beautifully with Monkfish & Leek at the launch, but would also be stunning with a creamy, shellfish dish!
